Ray of Sunshine

Where am I now, you might be wondering. I am actually in Cebu City, the main city on the Island of Cebu. My tour ended at Waterfront Mactan Hotel, right across from Cebu airport on Mactan Island, which was an inconvenience as I really need to get to the city. Yes, I could have got the agent to put me in the middle of the city, but to be quite honest, with the number of things I needed to get done prior to my leaving Korea, it feel down right to the bottom of my list of priorities. Thus I stayed overnight at the hotel, and travelled to the city the next morning to find somewhere cheaper and more central.

Yesterday morning I took an Ocean Jet ferry from Tagbilaran on Bohol island to Cebu city pier. The ride was one of the bumpiest I have ever experienced; for the first time in my life I had a sea-sickness that was difficult suppress. The only thing that kept my American Breakfast down was the man sat next to me, who was the first non tour-related trustworthy Filipino I had met so far. I had a positive gut instinct about him, and so I kept talking to him. Raymond, 23, ex-bankworker who used to travel all over the Visayas for his job. Sporting good clothes and various digital accessories, it was obvious unlike 90% of the Filipino population, he is not short for money. On the way back to his home in Cebu city, to pack a bag so he can travel to another island to meet his female friends.

From that moment on he took me under his wing. Accompanying me to my hotel, but not my room, then meeting me later that afternoon to take me shopping to the Mall. There I bought a mobile phone, and applied for international roaming, though unfortunately I will have to stock up on cards to put credit on the phone. After that I went to a bargin shop and bought 9, long-sleved tops and 4 jogging bottoms, as the itinerary for Thailand (which I only managed to read and print off in Phillipines) advised such, for culture, anti-mosquito and general safety reasons. The total cost of the 13 items came 22 pounds, which was very easy on the bank balance. The phone however was around 60 pounds, a small fortune for increased safety.

The next morning I took a taxi from the hotel to the middle of the city to meet him. He found me a better and safer place to stay (again not following me to my room) for the same money as the place the tour guide booked for me (not part of the tour, just as a favour), and then took me to the Blue Horizons office. There I picked up and paid for my ticket to Bangkok, and bought a ticket from Bangkok to London, thus solving any potential problems with Thai immigration. The previous ticket (Bangkok to London) was reserved and held at the office in Bangkok, but not paid for, as they required me to turn up in person-impossible if Immigration will not let you through without proof of onward travel....a catch 22 situation. Buying the extra clothes meant that I had to make space in my luggage, thus I bundled my girly, impratical-for-Thailand clothes into a bag, and we went to a post office to have them posted back to England. I knew I needed clothes that covered me completely, but unfortunately just before I left, the ever fashion-concious Korean shops did not accomodate for my needs. Besides, I knew clothes would be much cheaper here in the Phillipines.

Without Ray, I would have been running all over Cebu city with a map, jumping from one jeepney or taxi to the next, the lost white female being the perfect target for mugging and Lord- knows-what-else. Being white, I am perceived as rich, being female, I am seen as weak, and to make matters worse, possibly a Russian prostitute. I don't think male travellers truely understand how lucky they are to be male, and the insurmountable danger that faces women when travelling, or in fact at any time in their lives.

Ray has now gone travelling to see his friends. He offered that I should come with him, but we decided against it as the island he is going to is rife with kidnappers and terrorists that specifically target Westerners. Instead I will travel to Moalboal tomorrow via a hired van, and spend the next 10 or so days relaxing by Panagsama Beach. I will pay a visit to Planet Action office who will find me somewhere to stay for around 5 pounds per night. Planet action also do adventure tours, which I can go on if there are other people. As a back-up, to kill the bordem I bought 4 books for around 3 pounds each:Angels and Demons, Deception Point (both authored by the magnificant Dan Brown-wow I should be a book reviewer), the Swords of Night and Day (some cheesey fantasy novel), and believe it or not, Oliver Twist by Charles Dickens. After a year in Korea, I have felt starved of books to read. I could have gone to the English bookstore in Seoul, but every time I went there, I never made it as far as the book store.

You must excuse that this particular blog is a little boring. I have not taken any pictures as removing my camera out from my bag is asking for trouble. The Korean tourists here are happy to whisk their cameras out willy-nilly, and walk round in fashionable clothes and jewelry, but being Asian, they are probably not as much as a target. I keep my passport, money, cards and phone hidden under my baggy, bargin-basement clothes...that is the amount of danger I could be in if I do not take care of myself and my belongings. I am taking taxis everywhere...its more expensive but worth it for my safety. Any photos I would take would be a portrayal of exactly how poor the average Filipino is...forced to pester even rob people on the street. Ray might join me next week in Moalboal...I hope he does, otherwise I can see myself getting very bored. Again, at least I will be much safer living on the resort than in the city.

One of the Strangest Things I Have Ever Seen

One of the Strangest Things I Have Ever Seen
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

These are the deliciously named 1260 or so Chocolate Hills, thus named due to the colour of them, though in my opinion the colour is nowhere near the colour of chocolate. What is more spectacular however is the shape of them...these are a natural wonder, though for years they were thought to be man-made. The Bohol website (click link above-title of this blog) gives more information of the mythologies and the theories behind these hills.

More Chocolate Hills

More Chocolate Hills
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Chocolate Hills Under Cloud

Chocolate Hills Under Cloud
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Chocolate Hills in the Sun

Chocolate Hills in the Sun
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Old House

Old House
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Aparently the oldest house in Bohol, which we passed on the way to the Chocolate Hills.

Loboc River

Loboc River
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This the view of the Loboc River, taken from the floating restaurant. A singer entertained us we travelled along the river and ate a buffet of traditional Phillipine food.

Houses on the River Bank

Houses on the River Bank
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Boys Playing by the Water

Boys Playing by the Water
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Tarsiers

Tarsiers
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

As part of the tour, we visited the tarsier sactuary. The tarsier is truely an amazing animal, and scientists have difficulty classing it. However, it has been agreed while it is some kind of primate, it is definately not a monkey. Also, contrary to popular belief, it is not the smallest primate in the world.

Tarsiers are named for their special elongated tarsal bones,
which form their ankles and enable them to leap 3 meters
(almost 10 feet) from tree to tree. They have a long, partly
hairless tail that arcs over their back when they hop on the ground.

The eyes are the tarsiers’ most notable features. Each eye is bigger than the entire brain. Tarsiers can rotate their head almost 180 degrees in each direction, like owls. All tarsiers hunt at night,exclusively for animal prey. Their diet includes primarily insects
such as cockroaches and crickets and sometimes reptiles,birds, and bats. One tarsier species is found in the Philippines.

Four species are currently recognized in Indonesia and another
(Tarsius sangirensis) has been proposed, based on recently
gathered field data on vocalizations, measurements, and genetics.

See the title of this blog for the link to the tarsier sanctuary.

What are you looking at?

What are you looking at?
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Tarsier in Perspective

Tarsier in Perspective
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Compare the size of the tarsier with my little finger...and I have very small hands.

Baclayon Church

Baclayon Church
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This the bell tower of the Church of the Immaculate Conception in Baclayon. The church also had a museum, in which I was not permitted to take photographs. The following information is from the Bohol website:


The Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception in Baclayon is considered to be one of the oldest churches in the Philippines. It is one of the best presevered Jesuit build churches in the region, although in the 19th century, the Augustinian Recollects added a modern facade and a number of stone buildings that now surround the church.

The first Spanish missionaries or doctrineros in the region, Fr. Juan de Torres and Fr. Gabriel Sanchez, first settled in Baclayon in 1595. Shortly after their arrival, a visita was erected on the spot.

Although Baclayon was the first seat of the Spanish Jesuit missionaries, fear of Moro mauraders soon forced them to move their headquarters more inland, to Loboc. Only in 1717, Baclayon became a parish, and construction of a new church commenced. Some 200 native forced laborers constructed the church from coral stones, which they took from the sea, cut into square blocks, and piled on to each other. They used bamboo to move and lift the stones in position, and used the white of a million eggs as to cement them together. The current building was completed in 1727. The church obtained a large bell in 1835. In the Baclayon church is a dungeon, which was used to punish natives who violated the rules of the Roman Catholic church.

Next to the church is the old convent, which also houses a small museum with centuries-old religious relics, artifacts and other antiquities, dating back to the 16th century. Included in the collection are an ivory statue of the crucified Christ looking towards heaven; a statue of the Blessed Virgin, said to be presented by Queen Catherine of Aragon; relics of St. Ignatius of Loyola, old gold embroidered ecclesiastical vestments, books with carabao skin covers, and librettos of church music written in Latin on sheep skins. Here you can also find the cuadro paintings made by the Filipino painter Liberato Gatchalian in 1859.

Buli Plant Products

Buli Plant Products
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Made from weaving (but not the kind of weaving shown in the picture below).

Weaving

Weaving
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This is a traditional "machine" used for weaving. It is the same style as the ones used at the begining of the British Industrial Revolution; vertical separation of alternative strands and passing a shuttle throught the gap, back and forth.

Drying in the Sun

Drying in the Sun
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Here the pots have been shaped on the potters wheel, and are waiting to be be fired in the furnace. There is a huge lump of clay in the middle, taken from the ground I was standing on.

Furnace

Furnace
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Here the clay pots are fired and set. The coconut shells provide the fuel for the fire, as people are not allowed to cut the trees from the man-made forest that resides in the middle of the island. The forest was planted for a number of reasons, the main one being the roots prevent landslides.

Message

Message
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

A message I wrote in a bored moment to my friends and family,while strolling along the beach.

Banaue Province Tour

The next few photos are from my 3 day Banaue Province tour. The first 36 hours of my tour was disrupted by the weather, as was my journey back to Manila to catch the flight to Bohol. These are the photos from the places I managed to visit.

Raised House

Raised House
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This is a disused traditional house. It is raised on these beams to protect the occupients from wild animals and robbers. Underneath they would light a fire and prey to the Gods for a good harvest etc. Inside the house there are seperate sections for drying and storing the rice.

Fertility Statues

Fertility Statues
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

These statues stand at the foot of the short trail to the house...they represent the fertility of the man and woman dwelling in that house.

Hanging Coffins

Hanging Coffins
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

These are the famous hanging coffins of Sagada...except they no longer hang but are nailed to the rock. In the past the Filopinos allowed the desceased to rest in a sitting a position for a few days, before placing them in the coffin, still in the sitting position.

After this I went caving. Big cave, lots of bats, and lots of bat droppings. I had no choice but to grasp onto the soiled rocks to prevent myself from breaking my neck. At one point I was knee deep in water...at least at that point I was clean!

Banaue Rice Terraces.

Banaue is world-famous for it's rice terraces. Rising the full height of the hills, they stretch the entire valley from Banaue to Batad, on both sides. The terraces are around 2000 years old, and it is believed that they were made by hand. If you look closely, you can see dots on the flat parts...even today people still work the terraces. The terraces maximise the space on the hills as rice needs flat ground to grow sucessfully. This ingenious work, that must have taken decades to build, has been labelled "The Eighth Wonder of the World".

The first day the terraces were shrouded in cloud, and I was incredibly disappointed. Luckily, by the third day, the weather started to dry, and the clouds started to lift, allowing me to take some spectualar photographs.

Just click on them to enlarge them.

View from the Lodge

View from the Lodge
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This the view of the from the place where I was staying, when the sky was still overcast.

Cloud Starting to Lift

Cloud Starting to Lift
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

I took this on the second day, but the weather was still terrible. The weather did not clear until the third day, and so we stopped off on the way back to Manila to take some pictures.

Rice Terraces in Full Glory

Rice Terraces in Full Glory
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This is the first picture I took of the rice terraces minus the cloud and the rain. This and the others below were taken at the famous "viewpoint".

Rice Terraces in the Sunlight

Rice Terraces in the Sunlight
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This has to be my favourite.

Myself in front of the Terraces

S4020419
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Tribewomen and Myself

Tribewomen and Myself
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

As we were taking photos of the terraces, these two tribe women offered to have my photograph taken with them. They were so tiny, bent double from lack of nutrition and years of hard labour, and came up to just below my shoulders. I felt silly standing between them, so I knelt down, while the other two girls stole the picture.

Believe it or not, tribes still exist in the hills on many of the Philippine islands, but tend to keep to themselves, except at popular tourist spots, where they can earn a few bob by posing for a photo!

Another View of the Valley

Another View of the Valley
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Way of Life

Way of Life
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This photo shows a general countryside scene of the Infagao region. North and Middle Luzon is mainly countryside, with dirt tracks, paddy fields, run-down huts made of corregated metal and children playing bare-foot in the mud. This river is probably the village's only source of water.

Farming is the way of life in the country, though some families may own a snack shop on the side. Stray dogs are tolerated in large numbers, and wander the track that is the only road from one place to another.

The track led the van all the way back to Manila, the long route, as the road we needed was blocked. The rain was so heavy the day I arrived it caused landslide that had already taken a buldozer 48 hours to tunnel through. We had no choice but to take the 14 hour route rather than the 8 hour one, on dodgey terrain with a sheer drop on one side 2/3 of the way back. If it was not for the dedication of the driver and the tour guide, I would never have made it to my flight on time. To them, I owe a big "thankyou/malaming salamatpo".

Banaue itself was just as poor, though thankfully the place where I was staying was decent, apart from the dog fights outside my window in the dead of night. My tour guide decided never to place anyone there again.

Harvest Moon

Moon
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

The Philippine harvest moon, taken on the way back from Banaue to Manilla. Stopping every now and then to take a picture broke up the journey. I also had some of the mountains, blue and hazy, but they were blurred beyond recognition.

I finally arrived at my hotel at 2am, to get up at 5am and be picked up at 6am, to be taken to Manila airport. I then took the plane from Manila to Bohol, where the Chocolate Hills await.

Alona Beach

S4020438
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This is the small beach at Alona Kew Resort, on the island of Bohol where I am spending the next couple of days. The sky was overcast; however I have never seen a beach so clean and the water so blue...and there are more beaches like this to come!

PHILIPPINES

Closure

I am typing this at Incheon Aiport, half an hour before the gate to the Philippenes opens. When I arrived at the airport to pick up the ticket I ran into problems. I have an onward ticket to Thailand in the travel agency in Cebu (Philippenes), a paper ticket that they will not issue me unless I turn up at the office and pay for it directly. Meanwhile Philippene immigration insist on seeing an e-ticket (which the travel agency would not issue me), or a paper ticket before even allowing me into the country! In the end I had to pay pounds for an outward ticket to Hongkong, as proof of onward travel, a ticket I will never use.

From this I have realised that there may be the same problem with Thailand Immigration. Thus somehow I must solve the problem of having an actual e-ticket (which again STA travel in bangkok will not issue) or paper ticket ready to present to Thai Immigration.

I have just checked emails; my itinerary and so forth for the 18 day tour in Thailand has finally been sent to me, but I have no access to a printer!!!! I am supposed to enjoy my trip, but it is proving to be extremely stressful.

On my way to Seoul, as I stared out the window at the scenery, I saw my year in Korea flash past before my eyes. The laughter, tears, the peaceful times and the frustrations. The wonderful people I have met, both Korean and Foreign, whom I will keep in contact with and never forget.

If I come back to Korea, see you all in January!!! If I decide not to, I will save hard and try and visit. Till then, take care, and I hope you achieve your dreams in every area of life.



Left to right: Young-mi ssi, (Princess) Diana (Long story), Jin-suk ssi, and the new teacher whose name escapes me, as she started on my last day.

Mrs Son, Dana and I

Mrs Son, Dana and I
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Saturday night I had a farewell gathering at The Hospital, the bar that I am a veteran of. Most of the people in the next few photos have already been mentioned several times before, so I am not going to add any detail with each of the photos, as you know who they are!

Gomdo Gwangjangnim and the two Sabomnims turned up briefly, which was nice. Kim Sa Bom stayed a moment longer, and I had to work my hand out of his grip, though he did not hold me as tightly as when I saw him earlier in the week, completely drunk and staggering all over the street (him that is, not me).

We 3 English Girls

We 3 English Girls
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Lane and I

Lane and I
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Bobby and Friend

Bobby and Friend
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Mark and I

Mark and I
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Deep in Conversation

Deep in Conversation
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Mrs Son, her Husband and Dana

Mrs Son, her Husband and Dana
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Jessica, Claire and Sandra

Jessica, Claire and Sandra
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Peace Maaaan

Peace Maaaan
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Blowing out the candles

Pob blowing out the candles
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Me doing my best sun-burned Pob impression while blowing out the candles on the cake that Eun-jung bought me.

My Last Walk in 월명 공원

Saturday afternoon I took Claire for a walk in Wolmyeong Park, so she knew where it was, and it gave me the opportunity to see it one last time. We packed a small picnic, and spent 3 hours or so walking up and down the hills. At one point we saw a small building packed with retired men playing cards and the Korean version of chess. Some of the men were very proud to pose for me as they played. I was exhausted by my walk, it is disgusting how unfit I am, but I enjoyed the fresh air and the exercise. I had absolutely no idea where I was going, I just went were my feet took me, which frustrated Claire a little. I tried to head for the war memorials, but somehow missed them completely...however Claire has a year left in Gunsan and a year of exploration and adventure ahead of her, and so she has plenty of time to discover them for herself.

There the leaves on some of the trees were starting to turn colour, an indication that I am truely leaving Korea (yet, I still cannot believe it). And so the wheel of my life turns, like the changing of the seasons. Somehow I know that 2006 will be a better, more productive year for me, no matter where I am in the world, but I have no concrete ideas, let alone plans about what I want to do with the rest of my life. I was 80% sure that I was not going to come back to Korea for another year, but now it has lessened to 50%. How can I possibly make a informed decision until I am back in my own country? I am expecting a shock when I get back, so it may be a while before I can adjust back to my own culture. I don't want to turn up to any job interviews acting like a weirdo.

I can only wait and see.

Claire in front of Wolmyeong Lake

Boris the spider, found in a nook in one of the viewing towers.

My last view of Wolmyeong Lake. In the background the mountains stretch for miles.

Korean Chess, and the men posing for me. Kimcheeeeee!!!

The leaves changing colour, marking the beginning and then end of my stay in Korea

Suprise Party

Friday afternoon, just before my first class, the boss informed me that the entire hagwon was going out that night as a farewell party. He closed the hagwon early and drove Claire and I to a Hop'eu in Miryeong-dong. There they served us beer, soju, chicken and fruit, while we sat and talked. I was made to give a speech, while Diana translated. This made me feel awkward...I really wish I was good enough to say the entire speech in Korean myself. In my speech I pointed out that all the teachers work very hard and deserve credit for it. I have given up trying to persuade the Boss to at least treat the Korean teachers like human beings and not like dogs. This was my final message to him, if somewhat subtle.

After the speech I blew out candles on the cake. I have a photo of this, but unfortunately its a blurred action shot. Some time later the Boss made me drink a 폭탕/bomb, a shot of liquor poured into half a pint of beer, to be drunk in one shot. He poured one for me and one for himself, and told me to drink it. "Korean tradition" he insisted "we must drink together". I flapped my arms claiming " 못해요, 못해요!!!"/I can't do it, I can't do it! After futher huffing and puffing from the Boss, I beat him in downing it in one, to a round of applause from my colleagues.

I held hands with each member of my team as I spoke to them. I really will miss them. A few tears were shed, but not on my part, as even at that point, it still hadn't dawned on me that I am leaving. "who sent you?" one of them said."you're wonderful." "i-to-i" I replied, not knowing what else to say. Comments like this make me panic and feel shy, I always wonder if I truely deserve them. In between chatting with my team, I observed the Boss posturing in his drunken stupour, making his thoughts known about Love, Life and The Universe, to a bored audience. In fact one member of my team was resting on one of the maths teacher's shoulder, dozing off while he swung his weight around.

I was very appreciative of the party he threw, but I was not as appreciative as I could have been, as it was probably another ploy to get me to work for his hagwon again. He has my email address and parent's phone number, so I wouldn't be suprised if I get a phone call from him at some point, promising the world if I come back and work for him. But you see, there is nothing he can offer me that will persuade me...all I want is a dinner-break in my schedule, and this is something he will not provide. Plus after him making me work illegally, and trying to hold my passport and immigration card ransom, how can I possibly place 100% trust in him?

I will buy a cake for all of my colleagues, and a small present for each of my team. They are fantastic, and they deserve it.