Adventures of a LuLu

Round 2

2005-12-22T15:43:00.000+09:00

I am now back in Korea for round 2. I have more pictures of Thailand, but unfortunately they did not make it as far as this website. When my life gets off the ground here in Seoul, hopefully I will post some more of Korea there. My new website is

http://maumuichingu.blogspot.com

Cheers!~

Bangkok Canal

2005-10-23T02:26:00.000+09:00

Bangkok (as indeed the rest of Thailand) is not all gleaming gold Buddha statues and ornate temples and palaces. This shows the quality of life of the average Thai, taken outside the hotel of the first day of the 18 day tour.

What Wat is What?

2005-10-23T01:53:00.000+09:00

Unfortunately due to time constraints and slow internet connections, I have lef the publishing of my photos of the temples (Wat) too late for remember what the names were, what they looked like, and how to distinguish between them. Added to this, I have stupidly filed the itinerary of the first tour under section B (ie the bin), so it can not give me any clues as to where I went. The pictures where I am sure what they are I have put on this website. The rest I will show friends and family at home as "another priddy picture".

As well as visiting umpteen temples in my first few days here, I also went to a gem factory & shop. There I watched a 15 minute docu-ad (if this term does not exist, it certainly does now) about how the gems are found, mined/collected and then turned into the wonderful jewelry that happens to be sat in glass cases round the corner,waiting to be purchased. It was there that I decided that if I was ever to get engaged, and if I have the choice, I would prefer a PINK sapphire and diamond ring, opposed to the traditional blue (to go with the Korean wedding dress and proposal in Italy...a girl is allowed to dream!).

At one of the temples I had a spooky encounter with a fortune-teller, who used Thai numerology, Chinese astrology and palm-reading to outline my personality, describe my past, and predict my future. I simply wrote down my name, date and time of birth, then sat in complete silence as he did his stuff. I am keeping to myself (and a few chosen people) what he said, but I will say that I took everything he said with a pinch of salt until he told me (not suggested to me) that I am a teacher in an Asian country, now and in the near future, at which point I decided to sit up and pay attention. Before I approached his table, I was stood with the lady who was obviously my tour guide and a couple of middle-aged women, one of which could easily pass as my mother. Thinking back to what he saw of me and anything I could have said within earshot before I approached his desk, he had no reason to suspect that I am teacher in an Asian country. Of course, there are many Westerners my age in Thailand and Asia who are teaching English, but they rarely book themselves on a tour in the country they are living. So how did he know? Overall, the description of my past and my personality was detailed and accurate, with only one mistake....apparently I drink and smoke too much which will affect my health around age 29....but I rarely do either.

Wat Arun.

2005-10-23T00:53:00.000+09:00

Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn (so- called because the King arose at that time to pray), was the first temple I visited in Thailand, on my first full day in Bangkok. To get there I took a boat on the choppy, dirty waters of the Chao Phraya river, and disembarked on the other side. On the way back my tour guide gave the group some bread, which we broke into smaller pieces to feed the cat fish. I repeated the feeding of the fish on the 18 day tour, which I have photographs of....somewhere...to be published later.

Also, it was at this temple that I was accosted by a group of primary school children and their teacher, who interviewed me. In return I got a chop-stick hair piece, which after some amount of huffing and puffing, actually holds up my hair in a Japanese-style bun.

The information below I got from the Thailand for Visitors website.

The towering prang with its four smaller siblings was started by Rama II in the early part of the 19th century, and completed by his successor Rama III. The temple in which the prang sits is actually much older. It dates from the Ayuthaya period. During King Taksin's reign, just before the founding of Bangkok, the temple served as his palace.

The prang is not only in its design, which is a blend of Khmer and Thai styles, but also in decoration. Over the brick core, a layer of plaster was applied and then decorated with bits of Chinese porcelain and glazed ceramic tiles. Using porcelain from China isn't as extravagant as it might sound. In the early days of Bangkok, Chinese trading ships calling on the Siamese capital used tons of porcelain as ballast. The temple is just an early example of the Thai approach to "recycling."

Like the bell shaped chedi, the central Prang represents Mount Meru, home of the gods. The four smaller prangs symbolize the four winds. High up on the four smaller towers, you can see a statue of Pai, god of the winds, on his horse.

In the middle of each side of the square formed by the smaller prangs are pavilions containing Buddha images depicting the four stages of the Buddha's life, birth, meditation, preaching and enlightenment. These guard the stairways to the second and third levels of the big prang.

Wat Po/Wat Phra Chetuphon

2005-10-23T00:21:00.000+09:00

I visited Wat Po on my second day in Bangkok.

Wat Po/Wat Phra Chetuphon (originally Wat Potaram) is also known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, and recline is exactly what the statue did. The reclining Buddha image, like all other Buddha images depicts and reminds followers of various significant moments in Buddha's life. The reclining Buddha image is a very popular one, and represents the calmness of the Buddha as he reaches Nirvana. I did not take any photographs of anything else belonging to Wat Po, as it was raining and I was not in the mood.

The temple dates back to the 17th century, making it older than Bangkok itself, as we know it today. King Rama I enlarged the temple and renamed it Wat Phra Chetuphon, though it is more commonly known as Wat Po. Rama I recovered and placed many artifacts from Ayuthaya inside this temple. However it was Rama III who oversaw the construction of the Reclining Buddha, and making the temple Thailand's first university.

The Wiharn barely houses the statue; this and the the way the Wiharn is designed makes it almost impossible to take a wide shot of the whole statue. The feet of the statue are impregnated with Mother of Pearl images of the 108 auspicious signs that signify a true Buddha. I attempted to take a photograph of this but it came out too dark. The Wiharn is where people come to pray. Round the back of the statue I dropped one coin into a separate bowl each...each coin representing a different wish. There was also a large drum to beat to let the Buddha know that you are there (most if not all Buddhist temples in Thailand have this drum).

Follow the link above (click on the title) to see photos of the temple that I was too lazy to take myself.

Reclining Buddha Head

2005-10-23T00:20:00.000+09:00

Reclining Buddha Head
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Due to the bizzare angle I took this, I was unsure whether to rotate this before publishing it. In the end I just left it the way it was. Above the Buddha's head is the ornately painted ceiling. This statue is HUGE!

Reclining Buddha Statue

2005-10-23T00:17:00.000+09:00

Reclining Buddha Statue
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

I took this photo literally at the foot of the statue. The gold reflected to brilliantly for me to take a decent picture, but least it gives an indication of the size of the statue.

Bangkok Grand Palace

2005-10-14T15:18:00.000+09:00

My first free day was spent sleeping in the morning, and then visiting the Grand Palace in the afternoon. Before visiting the Grand Palace I headed straight for a Tourist Information office and picked up some maps. On the way from the office to the Palace I bumped into a crazy (in a good way) German man who goes by the name of Tobius (Toby). He kept me very entertained as we toured the palace together. A few Koreans took a photo or video-ed me, as I happen to be wearing the T-shirt with the Korean flag on it. I have found an interesting virtual tour on the net for this palace (and some other places that I did not visit), the link to which is the title of this blog.

The following information is from the Thailand For Visitors website, http://thailandforvisitors.com/central/bangkok/ratanakosin/prakeo/:

For just about 150 years, Bangkok's Grand Palace was not only the home of the King and his court, but also the entire administrative seat of government. Within the crenelated walls were the country's war ministry, state departments, and even the mint. Thai Kings stopped living in the palace full time around the turn of the twentieth century, but the complex remains the seat of power and spiritual heart of the Thai kingdom.The palace complex, like the rest of Ratanakosin Island, is laid out following the general outline of Ayutthaya palaces. The Outer Court, near where you enter the complex today, housed the government departments in which the king was directly involved, such as civil administration, including the army, and the treasury. The Temple of the Emerald Buddha takes up one corner of the complex next to the outer court.In the middle is the Central Court, where the residence of the king and the halls for conducting state business were located. You are allowed to look at the fronts of the buildings in the central court, but only two of the throne halls are open to the public, and only on weekdays.Behind the central court was the inner court. This was where the king's royal consorts and daughters lived. The inner court was like a small city entirely populated by women and boys under the age of puberty. Even though no royalty currently reside in the inner court, it is still completely closed off to the public.

Shrine of the Emerald Buddha

2005-10-14T14:58:00.000+09:00

bangkok 065
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

I could not take photographs inside the shrine, so I only have one of the outside. The Emerald (Jade) Buddha was much smaller than I expected, but it was worth it to see what the hype was about. I find the history behind it more interesting than the statue itself. The following I got from the virtual tour:

The “Emerald Buddha” is carved from a block of jade. It is an object of national veneration and crowds come to pay respect to the memory of the Buddha and His Teachings on certain days of the weeks when it is open to the public.
The Emerald Buddha sits high up on an altar of gold designed to represent the traditional aerial chariot (Busabok, Sk. Pushpaka) attributed to Hindu gods on the murals of this country. The effigy was first discovered in Chiang Rai in 1464, brought down to Lampang where it remained till King Tilok of Lannathai brought it to Chiang Mai, his capital, where it was fitly enshrined. Later on, there occurred a vacancy in the Lannathai line of succesion and King Chaichetta of Luang Prabang, whose mother was a Chiang Mai Princess, was invited to fill it. He however returned to his nativeland in Luang Prabang after a comparatively short rule here, taking the palladium with him back to his capital. Then King Chaichetta moved his capital to a newly built town of Viang Chan taking the Emerald Buddha again with him.
It remained there for a long time till the King of Thonburi sent a punitive expedition under Chao Phraya Chakri to Viang Chan which brought back with it the famous effigy of which the King of Thonburi was very proud. When King Rama I built the city of Bangkok with the Chapel Royal and the Grand Palace, the Emerald Buddha was installed with pomp and ceremony in the chapel.

Palace Home

2005-10-14T14:50:00.000+09:00

Grand Palace
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Model of Ankgor Wat

2005-10-14T14:37:00.000+09:00

bangkok 055
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Base of a building

2005-10-14T14:33:00.001+09:00

bangkok 057
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Beware....

2005-10-14T14:23:00.000+09:00

Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Hindu-style statues

2005-10-14T14:21:00.000+09:00

bangkok 071
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Tobius

2005-10-14T14:17:00.000+09:00

bangkok 063
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Palace Corridor

2005-10-14T14:14:00.000+09:00

bangkok 067
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

(From the virtual tour): The Chapel Royal ground is enclosed by galleries, the murals of which depict the story of the Ramakien of the first reign version. If we start at the east gate we come to the initial stages of the war waged by Rama of Ayodthaya to rescue his wife who had been abducted by Thotsakan (Ravana), King of Longka.
Here are depicted episodes of the building the causeway from the mainland, of the campaign of Maiyarab the Magician who took the sleeping Rama away to the netherworld, the campaigns of Kumpakan and Indrajit, the brother and son respectively of Thotsakan and other campaigns waged by Thotsakan himself, his other relatives and allies. The battle in which Thotsakan, loses his life is to be found just beyond the gate leading into the royal palace

Palace Temple

2005-10-14T14:12:00.000+09:00

bangkok 064
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Base of the Column

2005-10-14T14:10:00.000+09:00

bangkok 056
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Adventure Bound

2005-10-08T19:07:00.000+09:00

I have been in Bangkok, Thailand's capital city since Tuesday night. Today is my first day of the 18 day tour, and I will be meeting everyone for the first time tonight, at the hotel. So far I have taken around 100 photographs of Bangkok alone, but I have no time to put them on here. The weather has been generally wet and miserable, with tuk-tuk drivers offering me 50 Baht ride (70p) for a 10 minute walk back to my hotel, knowing that I would be grateful for the shelter from the rain. However, I ignore the pestering, lies, and cajooling, and so far have walked everywhere....I feel relatively comfortable in Central Bangkok compared with the cities of the Philippines.

I have visited around 5 temples, toured on the river, been to the Bangkok National Museum and explored the grounds of the Grand Palace. The food here is delicious...spicy with the familiar lemon-corriander tang that I have experienced back in the UK. I have shocked a few Thai's by choosing ONLY the spicy dishes from the menu....if I am here inThailand I should at least try the food!!!

Tomorrow I will embark an overnight train north to Chang-mi...from now on the next 18 days are in the hands of my tour guide.

A few Lose Ends

2005-10-04T00:10:00.000+09:00

Finally, I have found a computer that a) has USB connection for a camera and b) is fast enough to not reject my feable attempts at uploading images.

Tomorrow I will take my flight to Thailand...where new adventures await.

Please excuse the brevity...I really need some sleep.

Sunset from a Tricycle

2005-10-04T00:09:00.000+09:00

Sunset from a Tricycle
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Silloette (spelling????agggh) of a palm woods against the sunset.

Red Banana

2005-10-04T00:07:00.000+09:00

Red Banana
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Never seen one of THESE before!

Sleepy puppy

2005-10-04T00:05:00.000+09:00

Sleepy puppy
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

As I have already mentioned, there are stray dogs everywhere in the Philippines...very useful organic rubbish bin for unwanted meat. This puppy was taking a siesta in the shadow of a shop sign...so cute!

Overloaded

2005-10-04T00:03:00.000+09:00

Overloaded
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

I took this while bouncing along in a tricycle side-car. As you can probably make out, the truck is overloaded with passengers, just like all transport vehicles, to make the ride as cheap as possible.

Moalboal Scene

2005-10-04T00:01:00.000+09:00

Moalboal Scene
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

One of the rare moments where I felt confident enough to get my camera out in the middle of the day, in the middle of a town. However, Moalboal was relatively safe compared with North Luzon (rice terraces) and Cebu city.

Waiting Tricycles

2005-10-03T23:58:00.000+09:00

Waiting Tricycles
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

On this section of the road there was always an army of tricycles waiting to take its riders to any destination. Usually they try to crowd 6 or more passengers onto the one tricycle: two on the back of the motorbike, behind the driver, two in the front seat of the side car, two on the back, and typically a few hangers-on. Literally.

Kawasan Falls

2005-10-03T23:54:00.000+09:00

Kawasan Falls
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Walter and Lee, two friends I made while staying at Pangsama beach decided to up-sticks and move to Kawasan falls for a few days. I joined them for their first afternoon there. I was amazed by how clean the water was, and the colour of it. Either side of the pool the was a restarant and some rooms to rent. However, Walter and Lee chose to use their tent for P100 per night.

Korean Adventure Tour

2005-10-03T23:51:00.000+09:00

Korean Adventure Tour
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Although at a distance, I immediately noticed that this group was not Japanese, not Chinese but Korean. (Pretty scary that I can now distinguish between the three). Later the "hana, dul, set!" (one, two, three) as one man swung on a rope into the water confirmed my thinking.

New Korean Friends

2005-10-03T23:48:00.000+09:00

New Korean Friends
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

A bunch of lazy Korean English Language students..who skipped their class to go on an adventure through the waterfalls. A couple of them I met up with today in Cebu city for dinner and hot chocolate.

Walter and Lee

2005-10-03T23:45:00.000+09:00

Walter and Lee
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

One of the nicest couples I have evermet. Walter is from Germany, while Lee is Filippina.

Coconuts

2005-10-03T23:43:00.000+09:00

Coconuts
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Two coconuts straight from the coconut tree. The green ones are for drinking and eating, while the browns are for cooking, according to Lee. Walter sliced off the top and the bottom to make a drink...yummy.

Coconut Drink

2005-10-03T23:40:00.000+09:00

Coconut Drink
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Yep, I drank the water straight from the coconut...apparently one full coconut ( the water and the flesh) is a full meal. I certainly felt very full after that!!!

Sunset over Pangsama Beach

2005-10-03T23:37:00.000+09:00

Sunset over Pangsama Beach
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Every evening at Pangsama beach there was a magnificent sunset. This time I had my camera to hand, and took the opportunity to play with the different settings. To me, the sunset was beyond words, but for the locals it holds very little interest...just another sunset over the water.

Sunset over Pangsama Beach

2005-10-03T23:34:00.001+09:00

Sunset over Pangsama Beach
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

The Pier

2005-10-03T23:34:00.000+09:00

The Pier
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Finality

2005-10-03T23:32:00.000+09:00

Finality
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

The final rays of the sun falling behind the clouds in the night sky.

White Beach

2005-10-03T23:30:00.000+09:00

White Beach
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Sunday (during the day) I went to so-called "White Beach" only to find that the beach was far from white, due to damage from the typhoons. When I arrived there I spotted one of the girls who is working for Planet Action group, and she invited me to join a birthday party. I took this while sat under a nipa shelter, chatting to the locals. The sky is disappointingly overcast, but you can see Negros Island on the horizon.

Dancing Competition

2005-10-03T23:26:00.000+09:00

Dancing Competition
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Sunday night, as part of the Fiesta, there was a singing and dancing competition. Representatives from each town of the island province of Cebu competed for cash prizes. The dancing was energetic (break-dancing, acrobatics and modern dancing) and inspiring...afterward I felt like dancing myself.

Moalboal Group

2005-10-03T23:24:00.000+09:00

Moalboal Group
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

This is the representatives from Moalboal, the nearest town to where I was staying. They are wearing diving suits, and keeping to the theme of "conservation of animals and the enviroment". They told the story of a divers learning to respect the sea creatures when diving. The Moalboal team one the prize for "gimic" ie their props and costumes were the best out of the 5 teams that were competing.

Me and the Winners

2005-10-03T23:20:00.000+09:00

Me and the Winners
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Well, I could not resist but I my (blurred) photo taken with the winners of the dancing competition. Seems like the V-sign when posing for a photo is not limited to Korea.

Between Worlds

2005-10-01T17:46:00.000+09:00

I am coming to the end of my time here in the Philippines...today is Saturday, and next Tuesday I will be in Thailand. Thailand...a new country with new experiences, and I have only just got used to the Philippines. I am between worlds, part way between two countries that I am familar with...part way between two countries that feel like home. When I left Korea, I never expected to miss the place, but I do. Perhaps I will do one more year in Korea afterall...maybe I will visit Japan (I changed my mind about that), and most definately want to see China. If I can find a travel buddy, maybe I can travel on the trains that run from China through to Europe. I have so many ideas bouncing around in my head.

I have spend most of the past week or so resting, preparing myself for the 3 week adventure through Thailand. Every day in Thailand will be action-packed, moving one place to another, on trains, planes, buses and even elephants. I have been visiting the town market, and cycling around the small villages, to get a feel for how the people live out in the beach-countryside. It seems that the people are much happier in the country than they are in the city...and it is certainly a lot safer. I visited some waterfalls with a couple of new friends, where I drank coconut milk straight from the coconut, and met some Korean students who were on an adventure tour there. I get just as excited when I hear the Korean language being spoken as hearing a British accent. In between I have been reading my books, satisfying a years-worth of hunger for English literature.

But of course, yesterday I could not resist a taste of adventure. I paid 36 pounds for an all day Action experience. I got up at 6.30am to arrive at the starting point at 11am. We spent an hour walking through rivers and up the hills through the palm tree forest to reach the cave. After that we journeyed through the cave, climbing over rocks covered in bat droppings with bats screaching overhead. At one point I was swimming through a low-rooved river, having to swim under the water to avoid banging my head. Once we got to the end, we turned around and did the whole thing back again. After leaving the cave, instead of taking the path leading back down, we took a more interesting route, abseilling straight down a vertical (and I mean VERTICAL) cliff. After the cliffs (plural) there was still a 30 min walk back to the action truck, where a barbecue awaited. We arrived back at the resort at 8pm, but at that point I was more than ready for a shower (my hair was so dirty and matted that it stuck out at 90 degrees from my head) and a good nights sleep. I did not bring my camera as I did not want it to get damaged. Tonight is there is an "Action Disco", and there is no way I will be missing that.

Ray of Sunshine

2005-09-22T19:32:00.000+09:00

Where am I now, you might be wondering. I am actually in Cebu City, the main city on the Island of Cebu. My tour ended at Waterfront Mactan Hotel, right across from Cebu airport on Mactan Island, which was an inconvenience as I really need to get to the city. Yes, I could have got the agent to put me in the middle of the city, but to be quite honest, with the number of things I needed to get done prior to my leaving Korea, it feel down right to the bottom of my list of priorities. Thus I stayed overnight at the hotel, and travelled to the city the next morning to find somewhere cheaper and more central.

Yesterday morning I took an Ocean Jet ferry from Tagbilaran on Bohol island to Cebu city pier. The ride was one of the bumpiest I have ever experienced; for the first time in my life I had a sea-sickness that was difficult suppress. The only thing that kept my American Breakfast down was the man sat next to me, who was the first non tour-related trustworthy Filipino I had met so far. I had a positive gut instinct about him, and so I kept talking to him. Raymond, 23, ex-bankworker who used to travel all over the Visayas for his job. Sporting good clothes and various digital accessories, it was obvious unlike 90% of the Filipino population, he is not short for money. On the way back to his home in Cebu city, to pack a bag so he can travel to another island to meet his female friends.

From that moment on he took me under his wing. Accompanying me to my hotel, but not my room, then meeting me later that afternoon to take me shopping to the Mall. There I bought a mobile phone, and applied for international roaming, though unfortunately I will have to stock up on cards to put credit on the phone. After that I went to a bargin shop and bought 9, long-sleved tops and 4 jogging bottoms, as the itinerary for Thailand (which I only managed to read and print off in Phillipines) advised such, for culture, anti-mosquito and general safety reasons. The total cost of the 13 items came 22 pounds, which was very easy on the bank balance. The phone however was around 60 pounds, a small fortune for increased safety.

The next morning I took a taxi from the hotel to the middle of the city to meet him. He found me a better and safer place to stay (again not following me to my room) for the same money as the place the tour guide booked for me (not part of the tour, just as a favour), and then took me to the Blue Horizons office. There I picked up and paid for my ticket to Bangkok, and bought a ticket from Bangkok to London, thus solving any potential problems with Thai immigration. The previous ticket (Bangkok to London) was reserved and held at the office in Bangkok, but not paid for, as they required me to turn up in person-impossible if Immigration will not let you through without proof of onward travel....a catch 22 situation. Buying the extra clothes meant that I had to make space in my luggage, thus I bundled my girly, impratical-for-Thailand clothes into a bag, and we went to a post office to have them posted back to England. I knew I needed clothes that covered me completely, but unfortunately just before I left, the ever fashion-concious Korean shops did not accomodate for my needs. Besides, I knew clothes would be much cheaper here in the Phillipines.

Without Ray, I would have been running all over Cebu city with a map, jumping from one jeepney or taxi to the next, the lost white female being the perfect target for mugging and Lord- knows-what-else. Being white, I am perceived as rich, being female, I am seen as weak, and to make matters worse, possibly a Russian prostitute. I don't think male travellers truely understand how lucky they are to be male, and the insurmountable danger that faces women when travelling, or in fact at any time in their lives.

Ray has now gone travelling to see his friends. He offered that I should come with him, but we decided against it as the island he is going to is rife with kidnappers and terrorists that specifically target Westerners. Instead I will travel to Moalboal tomorrow via a hired van, and spend the next 10 or so days relaxing by Panagsama Beach. I will pay a visit to Planet Action office who will find me somewhere to stay for around 5 pounds per night. Planet action also do adventure tours, which I can go on if there are other people. As a back-up, to kill the bordem I bought 4 books for around 3 pounds each:Angels and Demons, Deception Point (both authored by the magnificant Dan Brown-wow I should be a book reviewer), the Swords of Night and Day (some cheesey fantasy novel), and believe it or not, Oliver Twist by Charles Dickens. After a year in Korea, I have felt starved of books to read. I could have gone to the English bookstore in Seoul, but every time I went there, I never made it as far as the book store.

You must excuse that this particular blog is a little boring. I have not taken any pictures as removing my camera out from my bag is asking for trouble. The Korean tourists here are happy to whisk their cameras out willy-nilly, and walk round in fashionable clothes and jewelry, but being Asian, they are probably not as much as a target. I keep my passport, money, cards and phone hidden under my baggy, bargin-basement clothes...that is the amount of danger I could be in if I do not take care of myself and my belongings. I am taking taxis everywhere...its more expensive but worth it for my safety. Any photos I would take would be a portrayal of exactly how poor the average Filipino is...forced to pester even rob people on the street. Ray might join me next week in Moalboal...I hope he does, otherwise I can see myself getting very bored. Again, at least I will be much safer living on the resort than in the city.

One of the Strangest Things I Have Ever Seen

2005-09-20T21:16:00.000+09:00

One of the Strangest Things I Have Ever Seen
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

These are the deliciously named 1260 or so Chocolate Hills, thus named due to the colour of them, though in my opinion the colour is nowhere near the colour of chocolate. What is more spectacular however is the shape of them...these are a natural wonder, though for years they were thought to be man-made. The Bohol website (click link above-title of this blog) gives more information of the mythologies and the theories behind these hills.

More Chocolate Hills

2005-09-20T21:12:00.000+09:00

More Chocolate Hills
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Chocolate Hills Under Cloud

2005-09-20T21:10:00.000+09:00

Chocolate Hills Under Cloud
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Chocolate Hills in the Sun

2005-09-20T21:08:00.000+09:00

Chocolate Hills in the Sun
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Old House

2005-09-20T21:07:00.000+09:00

Old House
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Aparently the oldest house in Bohol, which we passed on the way to the Chocolate Hills.

Loboc River

2005-09-20T21:06:00.000+09:00

Loboc River
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This the view of the Loboc River, taken from the floating restaurant. A singer entertained us we travelled along the river and ate a buffet of traditional Phillipine food.

Houses on the River Bank

2005-09-20T20:59:00.000+09:00

Houses on the River Bank
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Boys Playing by the Water

2005-09-20T20:58:00.000+09:00

Boys Playing by the Water
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Tarsiers

2005-09-20T20:57:00.000+09:00

Tarsiers
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

As part of the tour, we visited the tarsier sactuary. The tarsier is truely an amazing animal, and scientists have difficulty classing it. However, it has been agreed while it is some kind of primate, it is definately not a monkey. Also, contrary to popular belief, it is not the smallest primate in the world.

Tarsiers are named for their special elongated tarsal bones,
which form their ankles and enable them to leap 3 meters
(almost 10 feet) from tree to tree. They have a long, partly
hairless tail that arcs over their back when they hop on the ground.

The eyes are the tarsiers’ most notable features. Each eye is bigger than the entire brain. Tarsiers can rotate their head almost 180 degrees in each direction, like owls. All tarsiers hunt at night,exclusively for animal prey. Their diet includes primarily insects
such as cockroaches and crickets and sometimes reptiles,birds, and bats. One tarsier species is found in the Philippines.

Four species are currently recognized in Indonesia and another
(Tarsius sangirensis) has been proposed, based on recently
gathered field data on vocalizations, measurements, and genetics.

See the title of this blog for the link to the tarsier sanctuary.

What are you looking at?

2005-09-20T20:52:00.000+09:00

What are you looking at?
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Tarsier in Perspective

2005-09-20T20:50:00.000+09:00

Tarsier in Perspective
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Compare the size of the tarsier with my little finger...and I have very small hands.

Baclayon Church

2005-09-20T20:45:00.000+09:00

Baclayon Church
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This the bell tower of the Church of the Immaculate Conception in Baclayon. The church also had a museum, in which I was not permitted to take photographs. The following information is from the Bohol website:

The Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception in Baclayon is considered to be one of the oldest churches in the Philippines. It is one of the best presevered Jesuit build churches in the region, although in the 19th century, the Augustinian Recollects added a modern facade and a number of stone buildings that now surround the church.

The first Spanish missionaries or doctrineros in the region, Fr. Juan de Torres and Fr. Gabriel Sanchez, first settled in Baclayon in 1595. Shortly after their arrival, a visita was erected on the spot.

Although Baclayon was the first seat of the Spanish Jesuit missionaries, fear of Moro mauraders soon forced them to move their headquarters more inland, to Loboc. Only in 1717, Baclayon became a parish, and construction of a new church commenced. Some 200 native forced laborers constructed the church from coral stones, which they took from the sea, cut into square blocks, and piled on to each other. They used bamboo to move and lift the stones in position, and used the white of a million eggs as to cement them together. The current building was completed in 1727. The church obtained a large bell in 1835. In the Baclayon church is a dungeon, which was used to punish natives who violated the rules of the Roman Catholic church.

Next to the church is the old convent, which also houses a small museum with centuries-old religious relics, artifacts and other antiquities, dating back to the 16th century. Included in the collection are an ivory statue of the crucified Christ looking towards heaven; a statue of the Blessed Virgin, said to be presented by Queen Catherine of Aragon; relics of St. Ignatius of Loyola, old gold embroidered ecclesiastical vestments, books with carabao skin covers, and librettos of church music written in Latin on sheep skins. Here you can also find the cuadro paintings made by the Filipino painter Liberato Gatchalian in 1859.

Buli Plant Products

2005-09-20T20:41:00.000+09:00

Buli Plant Products
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Made from weaving (but not the kind of weaving shown in the picture below).

Weaving

2005-09-20T20:36:00.000+09:00

Weaving
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This is a traditional "machine" used for weaving. It is the same style as the ones used at the begining of the British Industrial Revolution; vertical separation of alternative strands and passing a shuttle throught the gap, back and forth.

Drying in the Sun

2005-09-20T20:32:00.000+09:00

Drying in the Sun
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Here the pots have been shaped on the potters wheel, and are waiting to be be fired in the furnace. There is a huge lump of clay in the middle, taken from the ground I was standing on.

Furnace

2005-09-20T20:27:00.000+09:00

Furnace
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Here the clay pots are fired and set. The coconut shells provide the fuel for the fire, as people are not allowed to cut the trees from the man-made forest that resides in the middle of the island. The forest was planted for a number of reasons, the main one being the roots prevent landslides.

Message

2005-09-20T20:22:00.000+09:00

Message
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

A message I wrote in a bored moment to my friends and family,while strolling along the beach.

Banaue Province Tour

2005-09-20T19:18:00.000+09:00

The next few photos are from my 3 day Banaue Province tour. The first 36 hours of my tour was disrupted by the weather, as was my journey back to Manila to catch the flight to Bohol. These are the photos from the places I managed to visit.

Raised House

2005-09-19T22:47:00.000+09:00

Raised House
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This is a disused traditional house. It is raised on these beams to protect the occupients from wild animals and robbers. Underneath they would light a fire and prey to the Gods for a good harvest etc. Inside the house there are seperate sections for drying and storing the rice.

Fertility Statues

2005-09-19T22:45:00.000+09:00

Fertility Statues
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

These statues stand at the foot of the short trail to the house...they represent the fertility of the man and woman dwelling in that house.

Hanging Coffins

2005-09-19T22:39:00.000+09:00

Hanging Coffins
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

These are the famous hanging coffins of Sagada...except they no longer hang but are nailed to the rock. In the past the Filopinos allowed the desceased to rest in a sitting a position for a few days, before placing them in the coffin, still in the sitting position.

After this I went caving. Big cave, lots of bats, and lots of bat droppings. I had no choice but to grasp onto the soiled rocks to prevent myself from breaking my neck. At one point I was knee deep in water...at least at that point I was clean!

Banaue Rice Terraces.

2005-09-19T22:29:00.000+09:00

Banaue is world-famous for it's rice terraces. Rising the full height of the hills, they stretch the entire valley from Banaue to Batad, on both sides. The terraces are around 2000 years old, and it is believed that they were made by hand. If you look closely, you can see dots on the flat parts...even today people still work the terraces. The terraces maximise the space on the hills as rice needs flat ground to grow sucessfully. This ingenious work, that must have taken decades to build, has been labelled "The Eighth Wonder of the World".

The first day the terraces were shrouded in cloud, and I was incredibly disappointed. Luckily, by the third day, the weather started to dry, and the clouds started to lift, allowing me to take some spectualar photographs.

Just click on them to enlarge them.

View from the Lodge

2005-09-19T22:27:00.000+09:00

View from the Lodge
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This the view of the from the place where I was staying, when the sky was still overcast.

Cloud Starting to Lift

2005-09-19T22:24:00.000+09:00

Cloud Starting to Lift
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

I took this on the second day, but the weather was still terrible. The weather did not clear until the third day, and so we stopped off on the way back to Manila to take some pictures.

Rice Terraces in Full Glory

2005-09-19T22:22:00.000+09:00

Rice Terraces in Full Glory
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This is the first picture I took of the rice terraces minus the cloud and the rain. This and the others below were taken at the famous "viewpoint".

Rice Terraces in the Sunlight

2005-09-19T22:20:00.000+09:00

Rice Terraces in the Sunlight
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This has to be my favourite.

Myself in front of the Terraces

2005-09-19T22:18:00.000+09:00

S4020419
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Tribewomen and Myself

2005-09-19T22:12:00.000+09:00

Tribewomen and Myself
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

As we were taking photos of the terraces, these two tribe women offered to have my photograph taken with them. They were so tiny, bent double from lack of nutrition and years of hard labour, and came up to just below my shoulders. I felt silly standing between them, so I knelt down, while the other two girls stole the picture.

Believe it or not, tribes still exist in the hills on many of the Philippine islands, but tend to keep to themselves, except at popular tourist spots, where they can earn a few bob by posing for a photo!

Another View of the Valley

2005-09-19T22:02:00.000+09:00

Another View of the Valley
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Way of Life

2005-09-19T21:57:00.000+09:00

Way of Life
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This photo shows a general countryside scene of the Infagao region. North and Middle Luzon is mainly countryside, with dirt tracks, paddy fields, run-down huts made of corregated metal and children playing bare-foot in the mud. This river is probably the village's only source of water.

Farming is the way of life in the country, though some families may own a snack shop on the side. Stray dogs are tolerated in large numbers, and wander the track that is the only road from one place to another.

The track led the van all the way back to Manila, the long route, as the road we needed was blocked. The rain was so heavy the day I arrived it caused landslide that had already taken a buldozer 48 hours to tunnel through. We had no choice but to take the 14 hour route rather than the 8 hour one, on dodgey terrain with a sheer drop on one side 2/3 of the way back. If it was not for the dedication of the driver and the tour guide, I would never have made it to my flight on time. To them, I owe a big "thankyou/malaming salamatpo".

Banaue itself was just as poor, though thankfully the place where I was staying was decent, apart from the dog fights outside my window in the dead of night. My tour guide decided never to place anyone there again.

Harvest Moon

2005-09-19T21:35:00.000+09:00

Moon
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

The Philippine harvest moon, taken on the way back from Banaue to Manilla. Stopping every now and then to take a picture broke up the journey. I also had some of the mountains, blue and hazy, but they were blurred beyond recognition.

I finally arrived at my hotel at 2am, to get up at 5am and be picked up at 6am, to be taken to Manila airport. I then took the plane from Manila to Bohol, where the Chocolate Hills await.

Alona Beach

2005-09-19T21:29:00.000+09:00

S4020438
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This is the small beach at Alona Kew Resort, on the island of Bohol where I am spending the next couple of days. The sky was overcast; however I have never seen a beach so clean and the water so blue...and there are more beaches like this to come!

PHILIPPINES

2005-09-19T13:50:00.000+09:00

Closure

2005-09-15T19:04:00.000+09:00

I am typing this at Incheon Aiport, half an hour before the gate to the Philippenes opens. When I arrived at the airport to pick up the ticket I ran into problems. I have an onward ticket to Thailand in the travel agency in Cebu (Philippenes), a paper ticket that they will not issue me unless I turn up at the office and pay for it directly. Meanwhile Philippene immigration insist on seeing an e-ticket (which the travel agency would not issue me), or a paper ticket before even allowing me into the country! In the end I had to pay pounds for an outward ticket to Hongkong, as proof of onward travel, a ticket I will never use.

From this I have realised that there may be the same problem with Thailand Immigration. Thus somehow I must solve the problem of having an actual e-ticket (which again STA travel in bangkok will not issue) or paper ticket ready to present to Thai Immigration.

I have just checked emails; my itinerary and so forth for the 18 day tour in Thailand has finally been sent to me, but I have no access to a printer!!!! I am supposed to enjoy my trip, but it is proving to be extremely stressful.

On my way to Seoul, as I stared out the window at the scenery, I saw my year in Korea flash past before my eyes. The laughter, tears, the peaceful times and the frustrations. The wonderful people I have met, both Korean and Foreign, whom I will keep in contact with and never forget.

If I come back to Korea, see you all in January!!! If I decide not to, I will save hard and try and visit. Till then, take care, and I hope you achieve your dreams in every area of life.

Left to right: Young-mi ssi, (Princess) Diana (Long story), Jin-suk ssi, and the new teacher whose name escapes me, as she started on my last day.

Mrs Son, Dana and I

2005-09-12T01:49:00.000+09:00

Mrs Son, Dana and I
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Saturday night I had a farewell gathering at The Hospital, the bar that I am a veteran of. Most of the people in the next few photos have already been mentioned several times before, so I am not going to add any detail with each of the photos, as you know who they are!

Gomdo Gwangjangnim and the two Sabomnims turned up briefly, which was nice. Kim Sa Bom stayed a moment longer, and I had to work my hand out of his grip, though he did not hold me as tightly as when I saw him earlier in the week, completely drunk and staggering all over the street (him that is, not me).

We 3 English Girls

2005-09-12T01:42:00.000+09:00

We 3 English Girls
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Lane and I

2005-09-12T01:41:00.001+09:00

Lane and I
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Bobby and Friend

2005-09-12T01:41:00.000+09:00

Bobby and Friend
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Mark and I

2005-09-12T01:40:00.000+09:00

Mark and I
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Deep in Conversation

2005-09-12T01:39:00.000+09:00

Deep in Conversation
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Mrs Son, her Husband and Dana

2005-09-12T01:38:00.001+09:00

Mrs Son, her Husband and Dana
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Jessica, Claire and Sandra

2005-09-12T01:38:00.000+09:00

Jessica, Claire and Sandra
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Peace Maaaan

2005-09-12T01:36:00.001+09:00

Peace Maaaan
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Blowing out the candles

2005-09-12T01:36:00.000+09:00

Pob blowing out the candles
Originally uploaded by Eleruen.

Me doing my best sun-burned Pob impression while blowing out the candles on the cake that Eun-jung bought me.

My Last Walk in 월명 공원

2005-09-12T00:17:00.000+09:00

Saturday afternoon I took Claire for a walk in Wolmyeong Park, so she knew where it was, and it gave me the opportunity to see it one last time. We packed a small picnic, and spent 3 hours or so walking up and down the hills. At one point we saw a small building packed with retired men playing cards and the Korean version of chess. Some of the men were very proud to pose for me as they played. I was exhausted by my walk, it is disgusting how unfit I am, but I enjoyed the fresh air and the exercise. I had absolutely no idea where I was going, I just went were my feet took me, which frustrated Claire a little. I tried to head for the war memorials, but somehow missed them completely...however Claire has a year left in Gunsan and a year of exploration and adventure ahead of her, and so she has plenty of time to discover them for herself.

There the leaves on some of the trees were starting to turn colour, an indication that I am truely leaving Korea (yet, I still cannot believe it). And so the wheel of my life turns, like the changing of the seasons. Somehow I know that 2006 will be a better, more productive year for me, no matter where I am in the world, but I have no concrete ideas, let alone plans about what I want to do with the rest of my life. I was 80% sure that I was not going to come back to Korea for another year, but now it has lessened to 50%. How can I possibly make a informed decision until I am back in my own country? I am expecting a shock when I get back, so it may be a while before I can adjust back to my own culture. I don't want to turn up to any job interviews acting like a weirdo.

I can only wait and see.

Claire in front of Wolmyeong Lake

Boris the spider, found in a nook in one of the viewing towers.

My last view of Wolmyeong Lake. In the background the mountains stretch for miles.

Korean Chess, and the men posing for me. Kimcheeeeee!!!

The leaves changing colour, marking the beginning and then end of my stay in Korea

Suprise Party

2005-09-11T23:17:00.000+09:00

Friday afternoon, just before my first class, the boss informed me that the entire hagwon was going out that night as a farewell party. He closed the hagwon early and drove Claire and I to a Hop'eu in Miryeong-dong. There they served us beer, soju, chicken and fruit, while we sat and talked. I was made to give a speech, while Diana translated. This made me feel awkward...I really wish I was good enough to say the entire speech in Korean myself. In my speech I pointed out that all the teachers work very hard and deserve credit for it. I have given up trying to persuade the Boss to at least treat the Korean teachers like human beings and not like dogs. This was my final message to him, if somewhat subtle.

After the speech I blew out candles on the cake. I have a photo of this, but unfortunately its a blurred action shot. Some time later the Boss made me drink a 폭탕/bomb, a shot of liquor poured into half a pint of beer, to be drunk in one shot. He poured one for me and one for himself, and told me to drink it. "Korean tradition" he insisted "we must drink together". I flapped my arms claiming " 못해요, 못해요!!!"/I can't do it, I can't do it! After futher huffing and puffing from the Boss, I beat him in downing it in one, to a round of applause from my colleagues.

I held hands with each member of my team as I spoke to them. I really will miss them. A few tears were shed, but not on my part, as even at that point, it still hadn't dawned on me that I am leaving. "who sent you?" one of them said."you're wonderful." "i-to-i" I replied, not knowing what else to say. Comments like this make me panic and feel shy, I always wonder if I truely deserve them. In between chatting with my team, I observed the Boss posturing in his drunken stupour, making his thoughts known about Love, Life and The Universe, to a bored audience. In fact one member of my team was resting on one of the maths teacher's shoulder, dozing off while he swung his weight around.

I was very appreciative of the party he threw, but I was not as appreciative as I could have been, as it was probably another ploy to get me to work for his hagwon again. He has my email address and parent's phone number, so I wouldn't be suprised if I get a phone call from him at some point, promising the world if I come back and work for him. But you see, there is nothing he can offer me that will persuade me...all I want is a dinner-break in my schedule, and this is something he will not provide. Plus after him making me work illegally, and trying to hold my passport and immigration card ransom, how can I possibly place 100% trust in him?

I will buy a cake for all of my colleagues, and a small present for each of my team. They are fantastic, and they deserve it.

My Last Week

2005-09-11T16:55:00.000+09:00

This week has been manic. As soon as I set time aside to sit down and update this website properly, someone phones me to meet me. Normally I would tell them to wait, but given everyone's differing schedules, I am grabbing as much time with people as I can in my last week, as I may never see them again. Even as I sit and write this, I only have an hour to write everything I want to say, as well as finish updating the blog I was half way through last time I tried to put time aside for this. At least I have a life outside the internet and the PC bang, which can only be a good thing!

This week, Jiwang managed to squeeze in a couple of hours to drive me to a local beach. The destination was a suprise, and I felt very happy when I got there...it was a nice finish to our time together. While I sat on the rock, he clambered to the top were there was a swarm of dragonflies. I have never seen a dragon-fly close up, so Jiwang spent 15 minutes trying to catch one, by circling his finger in the air. "If I do this, he will get dizzy" he said, but as always, I didn't believe him, and was suprised when the trick actually worked. He picked his way down the rock and showed me the dragonfly he had caught, trapped by the wings between finger and thumb. The poor thing looked quite disconcerted and bewildered as I took it's photo. Jiwang specifically wore his British flag trousers that day...I love it when he does that.

This week I also took Claire to a 갈비집/Fried Pork House, where I had the best kimchi I had ever tasted. It was hotter than normal with a full body of flavour, but without the strange after-taste. As we sat there I explained what the different side dishes were and how to eat the Kalbi: fry it on the barbecue, then place the kalbi in the middle of a lettuce leaf. Add other foods eg pepper, garlic, kimchi, scrunch to wrap, and then put the whole thing in your mouth. Delicious.
Every day this week I have either power-walked round Eunpa lake or attended 특공무술/Self-defence martial art, so that I would feel extra safe before setting out for my travels. I had no idea that this existed until one of the foreigners invited me to come along...I wish I had known earlier! To be honest I am finding it very difficult compared with the other beginners who started at the same time as me. There is no power whatsoever in my kicks, and very little technique either. I just have to accept the fact that I am hopeless at anything (other than dancing) that involves co-ordination. However, at least the knowledge is there.

My last week at hagwon was the usual routine, but with Claire there to watch. A couple of my students bought me a necklace, which you can see in one of my later photos, and I have received tons of pictures, letters and "Kajimayo"s (don't go!). My two 1-to-1 students gave me two huge slices of cake each (they are sisters), which due to an improvement in my diet, made me sick just looking at them. (Nevertheless, I enjoyed every tasty mouthful!). Over the course of the week I slowly introduced Claire into teaching the students, first by making her take same level of control of the mixed classes (by playing games), while I taught the levelled classes (with her observing) and then on Friday giving her autonomy with the 1-to-1 students. Next week I will give her full autonomy of all the classes, while I sit at the back and help her when needs it. It will be strange for me to keep my mouth shut while I watch her teach, as I am so used to being the one with the authority....but my last two days at the hagwon will be fairly restful.

Passing on the Knowledge

2005-09-04T17:04:00.000+09:00

Yesterday was my first day of induction for Claire. I am to train her not only at work, but introduce her to new friends and introduce her to the Korean way of life. There is so much for me to show her, and a week is not long enough. I really need a month with her. On top of that I am teaching her the Korean alphabet and some basic phrases....a lot of information for her to take in. My head is spinning with everything I must get done: get the Thailand tour intinery sorted with Claire's help, pack everything I cannot carry, withdraw enough money in US Dollars and US Dollar Travellers Cheques to keep me going until I find a cash machine in the Phillippenes, plus extra for emergency. (The rest I will transfer to my HSBC current account, so I can access it while I am travelling). Despite Claire's arrival and training, it still has not settled with me that I am really leaving the place I have called home for the past year.

Saturday morning was spent teaching some of the Korean alphabet, then eating lunch at a Korean restaurant. On the way back from the restaurant, we bumped into another English girl for the first time...Jessica, who has been here for 2 weeks. In the afternoon, I introduced her to Dana briefly, then we went shopping in the town centre. I bought lots of clothes for the winter in England, and was suprised when Claire told me that the fashion in Korea is also popular in England. But hey....I will be fashionable for half the price! In the evening, we 3 English girls went out to the "Fishy Wife" the tradition-style Korean pub that has been mentioned in previous blogs, then to the Wa-Bar, followed by noraebang.

Today we ate in a different restaurant and bumped into Joseph and Susan. Joseph wants to get Claire involved in some self-defence martial arts, and I have decided to come along for the ride....it will come in handy for travelling, though hopefully I will never be in a situation where I have to use it. We will meet him 11.30 tomorrow morning; I am really looking forward to it.

Now the pair of us are sat in the PC bang updating our blogs ( I showed her how to set one up), but I still cannot believe that she is really here.

If you want to view Claire's blog, I have created a link to it in my side-bar...enjoy!

Small World

2005-09-04T16:14:00.000+09:00

At around 10.30 Friday night there was a knock on the door of my apartment. In walks The Boss, John (i-to-i contact) with a huge rucksack, followed closely by Claire. After a few words and a brief hug with Claire, I had a quick chat with John, who was congratulating on my success in Korea. Truely, I had no idea what he was talking about. After an awkward silence he then asked me if I was coming back to Korea; I told him that I wasn't sure, but his suspicion is that I am going to come back.

When the two men left, Claire informed me immediately that she brought me a present. "What is it?" I asked jokingly. "Cadbury's Dairy Milk?" "Yes!" she replied, pulling out a sizable bar of the Nations Chocolate. The very chocolate I was thinking about sending her from England as a Christmas present. I was impressed....how did she know? I never once mentioned chocolate in my emails to her prior to her arrival.

After further conversation, she then told me that she used to work with STA travel in Manchester. She then went on to tell me that a few weeks ago she had a conversation with a customer about her coming to Korea to teach for a year. The customer mentioned that he came here in March to visit his ex-girlfriend. Claire then went on to say that she is coming to Gunsan, and that she was replacing me. All of a sudden they both realised that the ex-girlfriend and the teacher were the same person....ME! The customer was Rob!!!

Our conversation then moved to my problems with STA in Manchester, that I still have not had my full intinery through for the tour in Thailand. Claire asked me if I knew who I booked the tour with, and I provided her the name. "Oh really?' she exclaimed " I used to sit next to her at work!" I could not believe it. Is the world we live in really that small? Before Claire even arrived in Korea, she and I were unwittingly linked through two people, from one end of the world to the other. It seems that just like at the beginning of my stay in Korea, Fate wielded her creative hand once more to bring Claire and I together.

14 Days to go...Many Sleepless Nights

2005-09-02T13:41:00.000+09:00

Today Clare is arriving in Korea, and so I have been given the task of taking care of her...training her at work and introducing her to life in Korea. On top of this I still have to finalise travel details. I have phoned the STA travel office in Cebu 3 times, with still no email confirmation of the booking. However, from the telephone conversation this morning, it seems that my name is on their computer, which is a start. Asia being, well, Asia, I must pay and pick up my ticket at the office in Cebu. I will be able to do this once my tour in the Phillipenes has ended, as I will have around 8 days in the Phillippenes with nothing specific planned. Once I have got my plane ticket, I will probably head for Mohabol, where there is a company that organises accommodation and adventure tours.

Another aggrevation is the tours I have booked and paid for in Thailand. I have booked two: one is a tour of Bangkok, and the other is a 18 day tour of Thailand, North to South, then back to Bangkok. I have received email confirmation of the Bangkok tour, but not the following 18 day tour (which I have also paid for), despite a reminder via email. I will have to phone them again tonight. Once the 18 day tour has finished, I must pick up and pay for my ticket the next day, and then fly to London the following day. When I arrive at Heathrow airport, I then have the headache of working out how to get back home.

I am still waiting for my Solo card to arrive so that I don't have to use my credit card all the time and pay interest and surcharges. HSBC have been badly disorganised with sending out my card, and so I am considering changing banks when I get back to England.

I found a chemical that removes mildew, but unfortunately not off the walls by the washing machine. Thus my apartment is still stinks but its not nearly as bad as it was. I think there is a problem under the kitchen cabinet, but it is fixed to the floor with no gap, so I cannot deal with it. I really want Clare to have a pleasant stay in Korea, but I think I have lost the battle.

Western Men with Korean Women

2005-08-28T19:01:00.000+09:00

I read this article on the Chosun Ilbo:

We know that Korean-American Alice Kim (Korean name: Kim Yong-gyeong) willmarry Hollywood star Nicolas Cage in June. Kim’s uncle, an executive at a creditagency, said in an interview with a Korean daily paper that, “I understand thatAlice Kim and Nicolas Cage will marry in June.” This marriage may be postponed,however; Cage is leaving for Africa in July to shoot his new film, “Lord ofWar.”

Why are American film stars into Korean women? Kenny, an executive at a LA Koreatown broadcasting company, said in an interview with a Korean broadcaster that, “Korean women are submissive and kind. They are known to make breakfast, lunch and dinner for their husbands, help their husbands well, andraise children well." There are also those who feel that in the eyes of Westernmen, East Asian women possess a sort of mysteriousness about them. They say that one can grow fond of the unknown “Orient."

24-year-old James Cecil, an Americanliving in Korea, said, “Even Korean women who are not though of as pretty byKorean men can give a sense of mystery to Western men.” 29-year-old English teacher Mike Conforty said, “Korean women are gentle, feminine and quiet. Ithink Korean women are the prettiest of all East Asian women.”Western men also seem to find the purity and conservativeness of Korean women attractive.

25-year-old USFK soldier Blake Selesnew said, “American women are too materialistic, but Korean women aren’t. They seem less snobby.” KoreaUniversity English instructor Zane Ivy said, “Korean women are conservative.They are conscience of what people around them think, depend on their familiesand parents and are submissive.”

Before Alice Kim and Nicolas Cage, other Hollywood couples with Koreanwomen included Wesley Snipes and Nikki Park and Woody Allen and Soon-Yi Previn.Less well known was “About Schmidt” director Alexander Payne’s marriage lastyear to Korean-Canadian actress Sandra Oh. Meanwhile, Woody Allen attended aliterature event last October in Frankfurt, Germany and said he would write anautobiography containing the story of how he split from long-time lover MiaFarrow and fell in love and married Farrow’s adopted daughter Soon-YiPrevin.

“Korean women are submissive and kind. They are known to make breakfast, lunch and dinner for their husbands, help their husbands well, andraise children well."

First of all, I question the character of any men who prefers submissive woman. Whatever happened to the modern "women are equal" concept? Yes, we are different to men, but we are also human, and have grey matter between our ears generally known as a "brain". Surely a man who truely loves a woman will want not only to understand her heart, but respect it? Why would any decent man want his woman to be submissive all the time? The occassional submissiveness is natural, but surely it would frustrate a man for his woman to look down at the floor and whisper "yes..." to his every wish or command? I (and all of the Western woman I know) like a strong man to take the lead sometimes, as we like the reassurance that they are indeed man who likes to take care us...but only sometimes. There will be times when his ideas might be impractical and unrealistic, or he may be down-right rude, inconsiderate and disrespectful. In the former case, as a Western woman, I will put forward my own ideas, and in the latter I will not put with disrespect. Here in Korea, the women seem willing to put up with anything, and are very miserable as a result. I refuse to be miserable.

However, I read somewhere that Korea has the one of the highest divorce rates in the world, even higher than that of UK and US. Perhaps then, Korean women are now making a stand. In fact, there has been a number of times where I have seen girls of the "new generation" getting incredibly stroppy in public with their boyfriend over something petty. So in reality, are Korean women that submissive? I am not so sure. Maybe the girl throws a wobbly then eventually gives in. Who knows.

Nonetheless, the submissive Korean women with the chauvanistic Western men...well they are welcome to them (not all western men want a Korean woman for her submissiveness). They are doing us Western woman a favour: they are taking these idiots out of the dating pool, leaving the more decent ones available.

Secondly, we western woman also know how look after our husbands and children well. However, from my observations, it seems that even in Korea women are now feeling the pressure to go to work and be a full-time mother simultaneously, resulting in children who are spoiled and husbands who are disastisfied. I too would like to take good care of my husband and children, but unfortunately the current state of the housing market in the UK indicates that I would have no choice but to provide a second income, just to keep a roof over our heads and food in our mouths. Also, being a western woman, if I work full-time, I expect help with housework. Why? Because I believe that both parenting and chores should be shared equally...because the household is run more effeciently that way.

Thirdly, when treated with respect ie no bullying, no violence, and consideration of our feelings and opinions, we Western women can be just as kind. In the past, I have always been very kind to my boyfriends...there was very little I would not do for them. However after many incidences of dreadful behaviour from the boyfriend, the kindness stops and the stroppiness sets in. Think about it...why would anyone with half a brain continue to be kind eg to someone who is perpetually rude without provocation?

There are also those who feel that in the eyes of Westernmen, East Asian women possess a sort of mysteriousness about them. They say that one can grow fond of the unknown “Orient."

I can empathise with this. However, after a few years together, the Korean woman will probably fall off the pedestal that the Western man has placed her on, for her boyfriend to find that she is only human, she has flaws, and truely, she is just as mysterious (or not ) as a Western woman. Korean men also have the same attitude to towards Western women; we are a mystery, but get an awful shock when they find that the woman they are dating will not put up with disrespect, or feel deep disappointment when they realise that deep down inside, we are exactly the same as a Korean woman, thus dispelling the mystery.

Korean women are gentle, feminine and quiet.

Gentle? Really? How about the very-public temper tantrums? And my teenage students' loud-mouthed behaviour? Many Western woman can be gentle and feminine, don't dismiss us so lightly. Quiet...well, I have a brain, and I like to use the vocal chords that nature provided me to voice what is on my mind. And why shouldn't I? But I also have my quiet moments. I am sure that most other Western women do to. I am very comfortable with silence, and being silent (I am not just refering to my voice, but my behaviour)....it is good for the soul.

“American women are too materialistic, but Korean women aren’t. They seem less snobby.

I cannot account for American woman. But it seems that Korean girls can be VERY materialistic, even more so than the average British girl. Koreans by nature are concerned with keeping up with appearances, they must have the latest mobile, clothes and so forth, even if they cannot afford it. This is also true in the UK, but far more apparent here in Korea. Also, due to the culture, a Korean woman, almost without exception, will think carefully about the state of a man's finances/his status/job before marrying him. Most Western women will put LOVE above all of these things.

Korean women are conservative.They are conscience of what people around them think, depend on their familiesand parents and are submissive

As western women get older, they also become more conservative. Personally, I have always been more conservative than the women I have met and known back in the UK. Also, I have noticed that when a Korean man wants sex with a Korean woman, she will feign reluctance, and may even claim inexperience/virginity. Yet I have been told by countless Koreans themselves that this behaviour and claims in at least 50% of cases are lies. The women are just as keen to have casual sex as the men, they just behave this way so they are not perceived as a slut. And the amusing thing is, men (both Korean and Western) believe them. Sex is still a very taboo issue in Korea (despite porn on normal TV channels and Motels set up specifically for this usage), and so what people claim about themselves and what actually goes on are two completely different things.

Is it really altogether healthy to be concerned about what other people think all the time? Westerners also have this concern, but we know when to draw the line. In fact, Korea has one of the highest suicide rates in the world due to excessive concern of the opinion of others and the immense pressure to achieve in every area of life. Also, as stated in a previous blog, it seems the excessive dependence on others is detrimental to the emotional growth of the individual.

In my honest opinion, the Western man's (and Korean man's) concept of the average Korean woman is complete codswallop, not helped by some Korean womens' amazing ability to feign exactly what a man wants in a woman...in order to benefit from his healthy pay packet. Of course, not all Korean woman are like this. Just like western women, it all depends on the individual, and it is unfair to generalise.

Marriage Proposal

2005-08-27T14:44:00.000+09:00

Yesterday at hagwon was a headache. 6 hours of constant screaming, which I brought on myself by using speaking games, to try and create a natural but exciting environment to illicit their speaking skills. However I do try and remind my students that it is a SPEAKING game, not a yelling game or a slanging match...the stakes are high-one sweet for each of the winners-(note slight hint of derisiveness) and so sometimes games get nasty as the competition heats up. Earlier this week one of my students got so excited she turned to a member of the opposing team and shouted "It's a fruit, not a vegetable, stupid!", not realising that she had spoken to him in English. If there is one thing I can say from my time teaching them, is that speaking English is becoming more natural for them, even if it is broken sentences accompanied by flapping hand gestures.Until now they have had it easy, with Korean teachers available to translate everything they say (if I don't understand the Korean myself). Now they must open their mouth and say something in English.

In my second to last class (with the 15 year olds) I received my first marriage proposal from one of the teenage boys, when doing my routine "how are you?" to each of the students. "Do you marry me, Teacher?" he asked me. "WILL you marry me?" I corrected, and then paused. "Are you rich?" I asked him. "No" he replies. "Then my answer is no" I said, to howls of laughter from the rest of the class. I next asked his friend how he was, and he gave me his usual answer "Very happy...I always think about Louise Teacher" blushing red from the top of his forehead to the tip of his chin. Everytime he says this I just smile and walk away. Due to language barrier, I really do not know how to handle that situation. Besides, a teenage boy thinking about me in that way really does give me the creeps.

I have now booked paid for a 21 day tour in Thailand, and booked my flight from Cebu in the Philippenes to Bangkok in Thailand. I have received the full itinery for the two tours in the Phillipenes, and waiting for the itinerary for Thailand, and flight booking confirmation.(The tickets for the flight to Bangkok I have to pick up at the ticket issuing office in Cebu...the Philippenes really is behind in modern conveniences). Once I have this sorted, I can book my flight from Bangkok to England....ASSSSSSSSSSAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!

Day 20

2005-08-25T01:00:00.000+09:00

Phoned HSBC last night, and authorised the transaction for the tours in the Philippenes. The tour group emailed me this morning to let me know that they have charged my account. This is good news and gives me a small sense of relief. Also transfered some more money from my Korean bank account to my British one, and found out that I can purchase travellers cheques immediately at my bank. Thus on my last pay day in September, I can put the money into my Korean bank account, withdraw some of it in US Dollars and some in US Dollar travellers cheques, then transfer the rest into my HSBC account.

Now I just have to plan the rest of my trip in Phillipenes, the flight from Cebu to Bangkok, the tours in Thailand, then the flight back to the UK from Thailand. I use the word "just" but actually there is so much more to do. Also my hair is in state of disarray and needs chopping, and my teeth need checking, scaling and polishing....so much to do, so little time.

Why me?

2005-08-23T13:29:00.000+09:00

The past few weeks have been super-stressful...trying to book myself on tours so that I keep safe. My first stop is Phillipenes. I finally find a company who will accept single travellers on a date that is convenenient for me, but the payment is in the most awkward way known to man. They want me to fill out a paper form, they want a photocopy of my passport, and they want photocopies of the front and back of my credit card. And if this is not difficult enough, the payment has to be in US dollars, and they will only accept payment via credit card. How, pray tell, do I send all of this to the Phillipenes, in the absence of both a fax machine and a scanner?

I questioned everyone I know about this, and they gave me many ideas for finding a fax machine...hagwon? opseoyo... Friend's hagwon?...opseoyo....friend's laboratory?...opseoyo....post office/stationary shop?...isseoyo, but does not send internationally. I felt like screaming. Why on earth do the post offices in Korea not have fax machines that send internationally? Another of countless moments of "but its common sense!" being drowned out by Korean disorganisation.

When my (by co-incidence, Philippeno) friends came back from Seoul and had finished entertaining their Phillipeno guest, I immediately pounced on them. Luckily they had a scanner in their computer laboratory (ps.... pc pang...scanner.....opseoyo), thus allowing me to scan copies of everything needed for the payment, 4 days past my deadline. My phillipeno friend insisted that this payment method is normal for the Phillipenes.

Today I got an email from the agent....my card is rejecting the payment. I really don't understand, as I am nowhere near the limit. Thus tonight I must phone the credit card company and find out what is going on....and I am not sure if I have their number. Just when I thought I had the first 7 days of my travels organised, I run into problems, and I only have 3 weeks left. You see, I cannot book flights from Philippenes until I know when I finish all the tours (and I cannot know this until I know which tour I am on!) It follows that I then cannot pin down dates for tours and flight back to England. I have banged my head against a wall so many times I have put my head through it.

Meanwhile....2 months ago I phoned HSBC for the second time to request that my debit card be sent to my addresss in Korea, stating the reasons why it should be sent to my address, and NOT THE BANK IN BEBINGTON, like last time ( I gave the same reasons last time aswell, but they were ignored). I was inforned that because I changed my address recently, I should wait another 2 months before they will send me my card. I told them that I did not change my address in June, just one letter in the spelling of it, to make it more accurate. This fell on deaf ears.

So two months later ie last night I phone them again...to be told that there is a standing order for the card to be sent to my branch in Bebington. At that point I ran out of patience. I insisted that they send the card to my address in Korea, and do it immediately, as it will take 2 weeks to get here, and I am leaving in 3. Even then, its not a debit card they are sending me, its a solo card...but at least I can withdraw cash internationally, which is all I am concerned about. Only time will tell if the man I spoke to is telling the truth about where my card is being sent to.

Just restin'

2005-08-23T13:22:00.000+09:00

Just 008
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Another one of my "mweoya?" photos.

This fella parked his arse outside my neighbour's door while taking a good look round at his surroundings. Completely unperturbed, he stayed right were he was, allowing my to approach closely to take this picture.

He is not particularly attractive, but I think he should grace this website anyway.

Wa-Bar

2005-08-23T13:14:00.000+09:00

Wa
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This is another one of those "can't leave Korea without taking a picture of..." photos.

The Wa Bar is a chain through out Korea that specialises in alcoholic beverages from the world, compared with the average Korean Hop'eu, which normally just sell 5 varieties of Korean beer, and liquor. Yuck, and er...yuck. Being a wine/cocktail kinda girl, the Wa-Bar is my ideal place, albeit a little pricy. As you can imagine, the Wa Bar chain is very popular with us foreigners.

NK Beer

2005-08-23T13:09:00.000+09:00

Beer
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

This shows North Korean beer being drunk out of a Dutch (???I really don't know my beer) beer glass.

The owner of the town-centre Wa-bar actually went to the North/South Korean border to buy this beer, and then gave us this bottle on the house. Oh, how we love him!

Cebu in Gunsan

2005-08-23T13:05:00.000+09:00

Cebu
Originally uploaded by LouiseL.

Why bother going to the Phillipenes when I can just go to this bar here in Gunsan?